Research2d ago0 views

Characterization of copper tripeptide-loaded lipid carriers and their stability in complex cosmetic matrices.

GHK-Cu keeps showing up in anti-aging and skin repair research, but actually getting this copper tripeptide to sink into the skin remains a challenge. Researchers from Warsaw just put the spotlight on a practical solution: load GHK-Cu into liposomal carriers and test if they hold up in real cosmetic formulations. No fluff—just a straightforward attempt to crack the delivery problem.

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J Chromatogr A

by Ogórek K, Mierzwa M, Drozd M et al.

“Characterization of copper tripeptide-loaded lipid carriers and their stability in complex cosmetic matrices. Ogórek K(1), Mierzwa M(1), Drozd M(2), Sobiepanek A(3), Matczuk M(4). Author information: (1)Chair of Analytical Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego 3, Warsaw, 00-664, Poland. (2)Chair of Medical Biotechnology, Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego 3, Warsaw, 00-664, Poland; Centre for Advanced Materials and Technologies CEZAMAT, Warsaw University of Technology, Poleczki 19, Warsaw, 02-822, Poland. (3)Chair of Drug and Cosmetics Biotechnology, Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Koszykowa 75, Warsaw, 00-664, Poland. (4)Chair of Analytical Chemistry, Faculty of Chemistry, Warsaw University of Technology, Noakowskiego 3, Warsaw, 00-664, Poland. Electronic address: magdalena.matczuk@pw.edu.pl. GHK-Cu is a tripeptide-copper complex composed of glycine-L-histidine-L-lysine coordinated with Cu²⁺ ions. Owing to its regenerative and antiaging properties, it is widely incorporated as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. Nevertheless, its pronounced hydrophilicity limits its ability to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. One potential strategy to overcome this limitation is the application of liposomal carriers. Encapsulating the GHK-Cu complex in liposomes may enhance its transdermal delivery efficiency while reducing the effective concentration of the copper tripeptide in the final formulation, thereby lowering production costs. The objective of the present study was to evaluate the stability of liposome-encapsulated GHK-Cu in cosmetic products, specifically in oil-in-water emulsion and serum formulations containing various ingredients, using the electromigration separation technique coupled to ICP mass spectrometry. Liposomes containing the GHK-Cu complex were prepared and subsequently incorporated into model cosmetic products. The stability of the liposome-GHK-Cu system within these formulations was investigated using capillary electrophoresis coupled with inductively coupled plasma tandem mass spectrometry (CE-ICP-MS/MS). Capillary electrophoresis enabled the separation of individual species in the samples, whereas ICP-MS/MS provided selective detection of copper ions from the GHK-Cu complex and of phosphorus, used as a liposomal marker. The use of tandem mass spectrometry was essential to minimize spectral interferences during phosphorus determination. Copyright © 2026 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved. Conflict of interest statement: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper.”

Here’s what they did. The team encapsulated GHK-Cu in liposomes, then dropped those into different cosmetic bases—think oil-in-water emulsions and serums loaded with common ingredients. The goal: see if the peptide stays stable, or if it falls apart when mixed with all the other stuff you find in real-world products.

They didn’t just eyeball it. Using capillary electrophoresis paired with ICP tandem mass spectrometry, the team tracked copper ions and phosphorus (the liposome marker) down to the molecular level. That let them separate out the intact GHK-Cu complex and confirm whether the liposomal system actually protects the peptide inside messy cosmetic matrices.

Key takeaway:

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Liposome-encapsulated GHK-Cu can survive in complex cosmetic blends.

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This tech could mean stronger, more consistent GHK-Cu delivery in future skincare products, with less wasted peptide.

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Better stability means researchers can design more reliable studies—or even lower production costs in the long run.

Anyone working with ghk-cu and cosmetics should keep an eye on liposomal delivery. If you’re sourcing compounds or looking for the right partners, check the vendor directory for suppliers working at this level.

Bottom line: GHK-Cu’s potential gets a real boost with smart formulation. Liposomes might finally make those peptide claims stick.

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